How To Grout Your Tile And
Stone By: Michael
Garman
More and more homeowners are experiencing the
satisfaction of repairing their tile and grout. The high cost
of labor for even small jobs, has driven people to the stores
looking for tile, materials, products and
information.
This is GREAT! Why shouldn?t homeowners learn
to tile and grout?
I?ve seen many new homes with completed
ceramic tile jobs that have made the hair on the back of my
neck stand up in fright ? especially tract homes where the
bottom line for the developer is speed and corners to cut. So
the more we learn about the different trades and the
applications and techniques thereof, the better we will
recognize a well performed and finished product to be proud
of.
With this in mind, here are some grouting
techniques to install in your memory banks for your next tile
or stone job around the house.
Whether you have laid new tile or have
scraped out the grout from an existing tiled area, make sure
you clean the grout joints thoroughly and have taped off the
areas you don?t want the grout to ?spill over.? Wiping grout
off of sealed cabinets and semi or glossy paints, won?t hurt
those materials if you use care when wiping, but sometimes a
little labor invested in taping adjacent areas will make the
job easier in the long run.
When the grout joints are clean and ready to
fill; mix the powdered grout with clean water and according to
the package specifications. The grout should be lump-free with
a consistency that will not easily pour out of the
bucket.
Use the appropriate grout for your
application. A non-sanded grout should be used for grout joints
that are 1/8? and smaller in widths, while sanded grouts are to
be used in joints which are larger. Typically you?ll find the
smaller grout joints filled with the non-sanded grout in the
bathroom and shower areas.
Use some latex gloves to protect your hands
and with a grout float held at a 30-45 degree angle, spread the
grout firmly into the grout joints. Don?t worry about the mess
on the tiles as this will clean up with your sponge at the
proper time. Some areas that are hard to float, you can force
the grout into the joint by hand. When all the joints are
filled completely, scrape the excess grout off the tiles by
holding the float at an almost 90 degree angle and pulling
diagonally across the joints so you don?t remove grout from the
joints. Put all the remaining grout back in the
bucket.
Allow the grout to set for about 10 minutes
then with a clean bucket of water and grout sponge, lightly
wipe the tiles with a damp sponge (not a dripping sponge).
Always wipe with a clean side of the sponge, flip the sponge
over and wipe another section, then rinse the sponge clean. The
initial sponging wipes most of the unwanted grout from the
surface. The second sponging smoothes and neatens the joints
and the third cleans the haze or residue from the tile. Always
allow a few minutes between the three sponging cycles as this
will allow the grout time to properly set. Remember, you don?t
want water from the sponge to puddle on the grout as this
weakens and deforms the consistency.
Lastly, a final wipe will smooth any
remaining high spots in the grout joints and clean the tiles of
the remaining haze. After the grout dries, you can polish the
tile with cheesecloth or a soft cotton cloth to remove any
remaining residue. Nice Job!
Copyright 2006 Grout Getter
Company
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Michael
Garman has 30 years experience in the
construction trade and develops tools for
professionals and homeowners involved in
the ceramic tile industry. To view
information and products on tile and
grout removal or repair, visit his
company website at: http://www.groutgetter.com
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